%%Whenever we think of Hu?, the old capital city, the Perfume River looms large and mystical in our minds with many tender memories. This river has existed peacefully as a symbol of a glorious past. The river carries away all the sentiment and worries of Hu? people and also reflects the ups and downs of society. No one from near or far who comes to Hu? and walks on the Tràng Ti?n Bridge will forget this river. Besides, its charm and dream like beauty, the Perfume River gives us a new thrill, a sort of refined entertainment -- sleeping on boats on the river. Seen from the top of Ng? Bình Mountain, Perfume River looks like a blue silk ribbon flowing leisurely through orchards, villages and the city of Hu?. It is like the glossy strap of a conical hat embracing the shy and honest face of a maiden. It both enhances the beauty while concealing the shyness of the imperial land's girl. If you want to enjoy the real beauty of the river, you must spend time beholding it at sunrise and sunset. In the early morning when mist is still hanging over the whole landscape, the river is half hidden in a bluish haze like a fairyland. The river flows towards a hazy horizon and silence. The mist clears slowly, and the sun emerges out of the haze and gives a pink hue to the whole scene. The day breaks golden, fresh and peaceful. A serene atmosphere reigns everywhere. At noon, the river turns deep blue, reflecting the whole of the sky with white clouds sailing slowly eastward. The Tràng Ti?n Bridge stands mirrored in the blue waters. All activities seem to stop at noontide. The river itself lies bathed in the warm sunshine ; the boats rest at anchor. Occasionaly, cock crows are dimly heard from remote hamlets. The lines of flame trees along the river bank enhance the beauty of the river. The pathways are strewn with deep red petals. At this very hour, in the silent atmosphere, one can hear the buzzing of cicadas. All these signs herald a farewell to the summer vacation. The hours of the day pass quickly. All activities here proceed slowly like the flow of the river. There is no hurry here when dusk begins settling on the city  ; everything comes to rest. The river appears mystical and ethereal. The long trains of the traditional "áo dài" dress float along the bridge like butterflies. The moon rises. The whole landscape looms like a dream-land the beauty of which no words can describe. To enjoy this wonderful time, this unique moment, let's hire a boat or a sampan. We can start the trip upstream from the Tràng Ti?n Bridge, remembering to buy something for the night. Outside, the moon is high in the sky. The whole river seems to be bathed in moonlight. The boat drifts gently on the waves. A total silence pervades everywhere. No one wants to talk, each viewing the moonlight in his own way. The only sound to be heard is the water lapping on the sides and the oars moving through the water. Suddenly, at this very moment , one think of these lines from a poem by Hàn M?c T? : Thuy?n ai d?u b?n sông trang dó Có cho trang v? k?p t?i nay ? Whose boat anchors at that moon wharf ? Could it take the moon home in time tonight ? When the boat passes by Linh M? Pagoda, travellers can stop for a moment to behold the pagoda at nigth. From the boat, Linh M? looks majestic, peaceful and mystic. Its seven-storey tower thrusts into the night sky. At regular intervals, the bell tolls and afterward the deep silence takes us into a world of meditations. World-weary travellers or busy traders can enjoy a short moment of this ecstasy when stopping by on this boat on a moonlight night. They can leave behind them all paperwork, all appointments and all comforts of modern life to spend a night on the wooden boat, lacking all modern facilities. But on this very boat, on this mystical river, at this very moment, they will find themselves again, they will discover their real selves which have been long forgotten in the pursuit of honour and wealth. A silent night, a holy night on this poor boat, may awaken you to the eternal truth, to everlasting happiness. You will discover yourself. The further you go upstream, the deeper you will understand the beauty and the charm of this river. Many people have long thought that to sleep on boats on Perfume River is a vulgar pleasure that just mean sex. In fact, in the old days as well as today, many people hired boats on which to spend a night with their lovers or with prostitutes. But sleeping on boats is really a refined pleasure. You can enjoy it in your own way. If you want to enjoy it to the full, you can hire a boat with some of your friends and organise a sampan picnic for a wonderful time. You will never forget it. Far into the night when the moon is at its zenith and the whole landscape is bathed in golden moonlight, travellers will listen to the whisper of the river. In this total silence, when your mind and soul are at rest, free from care, you will understand the river and its refined pleasure. You will understand it better, because there is no distinction between you and the river. You are the river and the river is you.